會唔會有港版呢?
Showing posts with label Photography. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Photography. Show all posts
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Sunday, June 22, 2008
反樸歸真?
本來冇諗住又去呢個位到影相，事關呢個位已經影過無數咁多次，有d悶。不過今日實在太好天，兼且又順路，所以帶部傻瓜機去影下。
八、十年前冇咩人會特登去呢個位影，最多只係遊客經過用傻瓜機影下留念。今日上到去，見到幾十人係到等日落影相，仲要九成人都係用DSLR…真係勁！反觀我自己用傻瓜機但係配鬼死咁大枝o既 Gitzo 腳，有d攪笑~
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Monday, November 21, 2005
Rolleiflex and Rolleicord TLR (Oct 2003)
My first medium format camera was a twin lens reflex (TLR) camera. TLR cameras have separate lenses for viewing the scene and taking photo. The image from the viewing lens reflects by mirror onto a ground glass with the image reversed left-right. It takes some time to get used to.
While deciding which TLR to buy, I did a little research on the Rolleiflex and Rolleicord. The following is my findings that I hope you will find useful when choosing your Rollei TLR.
BTW, I finally picked a Rolleicord V with Xenar 75/3.5 as my first TLR.
Rolleiflex and Rolleicord
Rolleiflex was first introduced around 1928. The original Rolleiflex had either a 75/4.5 or a 75/3.8 taking lens. Subsequent Automat and E/T/F models had 75/3.5 lenses. In 1949, another series, the Rolleiflex 2.8, was introduced with 80/2.8 lenses.
Besides the Rolleiflex lineups, there is also a low cost camera series - Rolleicord - introduced in 1933. These cameras were targeted toward the budgeted users. Cranks were replaced with winding knobs for film advance. Also the shutter need to be cocked separately.
Lenses
Different models of Rolleiflex and Rolleicord TLRs are fitted with different taking lenses:
Zeiss Triotar
Triotar is a 3 elements lens. It is usually found on pre-war models and usually not coated. Soft at the corners, even when stopped down. Maybe not suitable for landscapes, but many photographers love to use it for portraits.
Zeiss Tessar
The famous Zeiss design. 4 elements in 3 groups. The post-war version is usually coated. Image quality is acceptable even when wide-open. Becomes very good after f8 or f11.
Schneider Xenar
Schneider's copy of Tessar. Both Tessar and Xenar share the same design.
Zeiss Planar
Available in 75/3.5 and 80/2.8 versions. The 75/3.5 version is either 5 or 6 elements in 4 groups. The 80/2.8 version is 5 elements in 4 groups.
Schneider Xenotar
Both the 75/3.5 and the 80/2.8 versions are of 5 elements, 4 groups design.
Which One to Buy?
First, ignore all the confusing models. Simply pick the lens your want. But which lens is better? It is commonly agreed that, at least when judged by sharpness, Planar/Xenator is better than Tessar/Xenar which in turn better than Tritor. But there are endless debates between Planar vs Xenator and Tessar vs Xenar.
My advice is: unless you are a collector, need to shoot in low light, or very into TLR, otherwise choose either the Tessar or Xenar 3.5 versions. They are priced more reasonable and good enough for most users. But if you can afford it, of course you won't go wrong with Planar/Xenotar 3.5 or even the 2.8. Choose Triotar if you are on a tight budget.
Once you figured out which class of lens to go with, I suggest you to forget Planar vs Xenator, or Tessar vs Xenar. I don't think you will find any different in daily use, unless you like to shoot newspaper to look for sharpness.
Next is to choose whether you want a Rolleiflex or a Rolleicord. Rolleiflex models are priced higher. Some people think the winding crank on Rolleiflex is easier to work with than the knob on Rolleicord. But I actually find the knob to be more user friendly for handheld. I also prefer the Rolleicord that requires separate action for cocking the shutter. I found it more logical to cock the shutter just before taking a picture. Anyway, you mileage may vary.
The best place to find a used TLR is on Internet auction sites. There are usually plenty of them to choose from. And they are usaully reasonably priced, except those collectable models.
Look for cameras with clean glass, working shutter, smooth film transport, and most importantly -- the one that is priced reasonably. Don't get too excited on a particular item and place bid that is higher than the set price in your mind. Remember, there are plenty of TLRs out there.
Personally, I would suggest to go with at least a Rolleicord V. Cameras older that this model are usually beaten to death. Note that in Rolleicord, only the Vb model has a user changable viewfinder and screen, if that is important to you. Also, when you are buying a 30+ years old camera, forget about the built-in lightmeter, if there is one. It is usually not in working order or inaccurate. You are better off with a handheld meter.
And finally, if you can't find a Rolleflex or Rolleicord suitable for you, there are still many choices out there. Some of my suggestions are Minolta Autocord, Zeiss Ikon, Yashica etc. Stay tune for more of my reviews on these TLRs.
Tips on Using a TLR
Model References
While deciding which TLR to buy, I did a little research on the Rolleiflex and Rolleicord. The following is my findings that I hope you will find useful when choosing your Rollei TLR.
BTW, I finally picked a Rolleicord V with Xenar 75/3.5 as my first TLR.
Rolleiflex and Rolleicord
Rolleiflex was first introduced around 1928. The original Rolleiflex had either a 75/4.5 or a 75/3.8 taking lens. Subsequent Automat and E/T/F models had 75/3.5 lenses. In 1949, another series, the Rolleiflex 2.8, was introduced with 80/2.8 lenses.
Besides the Rolleiflex lineups, there is also a low cost camera series - Rolleicord - introduced in 1933. These cameras were targeted toward the budgeted users. Cranks were replaced with winding knobs for film advance. Also the shutter need to be cocked separately.
Lenses
Different models of Rolleiflex and Rolleicord TLRs are fitted with different taking lenses:
Zeiss Triotar
Triotar is a 3 elements lens. It is usually found on pre-war models and usually not coated. Soft at the corners, even when stopped down. Maybe not suitable for landscapes, but many photographers love to use it for portraits.
Zeiss Tessar
The famous Zeiss design. 4 elements in 3 groups. The post-war version is usually coated. Image quality is acceptable even when wide-open. Becomes very good after f8 or f11.
Schneider Xenar
Schneider's copy of Tessar. Both Tessar and Xenar share the same design.
Zeiss Planar
Available in 75/3.5 and 80/2.8 versions. The 75/3.5 version is either 5 or 6 elements in 4 groups. The 80/2.8 version is 5 elements in 4 groups.
Schneider Xenotar
Both the 75/3.5 and the 80/2.8 versions are of 5 elements, 4 groups design.
Which One to Buy?
First, ignore all the confusing models. Simply pick the lens your want. But which lens is better? It is commonly agreed that, at least when judged by sharpness, Planar/Xenator is better than Tessar/Xenar which in turn better than Tritor. But there are endless debates between Planar vs Xenator and Tessar vs Xenar.
My advice is: unless you are a collector, need to shoot in low light, or very into TLR, otherwise choose either the Tessar or Xenar 3.5 versions. They are priced more reasonable and good enough for most users. But if you can afford it, of course you won't go wrong with Planar/Xenotar 3.5 or even the 2.8. Choose Triotar if you are on a tight budget.
Once you figured out which class of lens to go with, I suggest you to forget Planar vs Xenator, or Tessar vs Xenar. I don't think you will find any different in daily use, unless you like to shoot newspaper to look for sharpness.
Next is to choose whether you want a Rolleiflex or a Rolleicord. Rolleiflex models are priced higher. Some people think the winding crank on Rolleiflex is easier to work with than the knob on Rolleicord. But I actually find the knob to be more user friendly for handheld. I also prefer the Rolleicord that requires separate action for cocking the shutter. I found it more logical to cock the shutter just before taking a picture. Anyway, you mileage may vary.
The best place to find a used TLR is on Internet auction sites. There are usually plenty of them to choose from. And they are usaully reasonably priced, except those collectable models.
Look for cameras with clean glass, working shutter, smooth film transport, and most importantly -- the one that is priced reasonably. Don't get too excited on a particular item and place bid that is higher than the set price in your mind. Remember, there are plenty of TLRs out there.
Personally, I would suggest to go with at least a Rolleicord V. Cameras older that this model are usually beaten to death. Note that in Rolleicord, only the Vb model has a user changable viewfinder and screen, if that is important to you. Also, when you are buying a 30+ years old camera, forget about the built-in lightmeter, if there is one. It is usually not in working order or inaccurate. You are better off with a handheld meter.
And finally, if you can't find a Rolleflex or Rolleicord suitable for you, there are still many choices out there. Some of my suggestions are Minolta Autocord, Zeiss Ikon, Yashica etc. Stay tune for more of my reviews on these TLRs.
Tips on Using a TLR
- Stop down. Nearly all TLR cameras produce reasonably sharp images when stopped down.
- Use a cable release, even when handheld. For TLR, it is hard to fire shutter while trying to keep the camera steady. Use a cable release to avoid shaking.
- Use a shade, if you can find one. These old lenses are prone to flare.
- For Rolleicord, when the shutter is cocked, don't move the lever to or away from 1/500. The 1/500 second speed requires a separate high-power string to fire the shutter. When cocked, the shutter may be damaged if switching to or from 1/500. If you really need to change the speed and the shutter is already cocked, cover the lens and fire the shutter. Then enable the double exposure function, select your intended speed, cock the shutter, and take your photo.
Model References
| Rolleiflex | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Model | Year | Serial Number | Lens | Others |
| Original | 1928 | 1 - 199.999 | Zeiss Tessar 75/4.5 or 75/3.8 | |
| Standard | 1932 | 200.000 - 567.000 | Zeiss Tessar 75/3.5 | |
| Automat 1 | 1937 | 568.516 - 805.000 | Zeiss Tessar 75/3.5 | |
| Automat 2 | 1939 | 805.000 - 1.050.000 | ||
| New Standard | 1939 | 805.000 - 927.999 | ||
| Automat 3 | 1945 | 1.050.000 - 1.099.999 | ||
| Automat X | 1949 | 1.000.000 - 1.168.000 | ||
| Automat 4 | 1951 | 1.200.000 - 1.427.999 | Zeiss Opton Tessar 75/3.5 | |
| 3.5 MX-EVS | 1954 | 1.428.001- 1.479.999 1.479.000 - 1.739.999 | Zeiss Opton Tessar 75/3.5, Zeiss Jena Tessar 75/3.5 or Schneider Xenar 75/3.5 | |
| 3.5E | 1956 | 1.740.000 - 1.787.849 | with lightmeter | |
| 3.5E | 1956 | 1.850.000 - 1.868.442 | without lightmeter | |
| 3.5E2 | 1959 | 1.870.000 - 1.872.010 2.480.000 - 2.482.999 | ||
| 3.5E3 | 1961 | 2.380.000 - 2.385.034 | ||
| T1 | 1958 | 2.100.000 - 2.199.999 | ||
| T2 (version 1) | 1966 | 2.220.000 - 2.228.999 | ||
| T2 (version 2) | 1968 | 2.242.000 - 2.249.999 2.310.000 - 2.314.999 | ||
| T3 | 1971 | 2.315.000 - 2.319.999 2.320.000 - 2.320.300 | ||
| 3.5F1 | 1958 | 2.200.000 - 2.219.999 | ||
| 3.5F2 | 1960 | 2.230.000 - 2.241.500 | ||
| 3.5F3 | 1960 | 2.250.000 - 2.299.999 (2.299.546 ?) | ||
| 3.5F4 | 1965 | 2.800.000 - 2.844.999 | ||
| 3.5F5 | 1979 | 2.845.000 - 2.870.149 3.555.000 - 3.559.999 | ||
| Rolleicord | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Model | Year | Serial Number | Lens | Others |
| I (art deco) | 1933 | 1.460.000 - 1.759.000 | ||
| I | 1934 | 1.590.000 - 1.759.999 | ||
| Ia | 1936 | 1.760.000 - 1.947.000 | Zeiss Triotar 4.5 | |
| Ia2 | 1937 | 1.966.000 - 2.124.000 | ||
| Ia3 | 1939 | 611.000 - 1.042.999 | ||
| II | 1936 | 1.758.000 - 1.973.999 | ||
| IIa | 1937 | 1.260.000 - 1.457.405 | ||
| IIb | 1938 | 612.000 - 858.999 | ||
| IIc | 1939 | 859.000 - 1.006.999 | ||
| IId | 1949 | 1.007.000 - 1.134.999 | ||
| IIe | 1949 | 1.135.000 - 1.135.999 | ||
| III | 1952 | 1.137.000 - 1.344.050 | Schneider Xenar 75/3.5 | |
| IV | 1952 | 1.344.051 - 1.390.999 | ||
| V | 1954 | 1.500.000 - 1.583.999 | Schneider Xenar 75/3.5 | |
| Va | 1957 | 1.584.000 - 1.599.999 | ||
| Va2 | 1958 | 1.900.000 - 1.943.999 | ||
| Vb | 1962 | 2.600.000 - 2.649.999 | Schneider Xenar 75/3.5 | user changable viewfinder |
| Vb2 | 1970 | 2.650.000 - 2.665.999 | Schneider Xenar 75/3.5 | |
| Rolleiflex 2.8 | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Model | Year | Serial Number | Lens | Others |
| 2.8A Type 1 | 1949 | 1.101.000 - 1.114.999 | Zeiss Jena Tessar | shutter 1/500 |
| 2.8A Type 1 | 1949 | 1.115.000 - 1.139.999 | Zeiss Opton Tessar | shutter 1/500 |
| 2.8A Type 2 | 1951 | 1.154.000 - 1.163.999 | Zeiss Opton Tessar 80/2.8 | shutter 1/400 |
| 2.8A Type 2 | 1951 | 1.201.000 - 1.201.999 | Zeiss Opton Tessar 80/2.8 | shutter 1/500 |
| 2.8B | 1952 | 1.204.000 - 1.259.999 | ||
| 2.8C | 1952 | 1.260.000 - 1.457.405 | ||
| 2.8D | 1955 | 1.600.000 - 1.620.100 | ||
| 2.8E | 1956 | 1.621.000 - 1.664.999 | ||
| 2.8E2 | 1959 | 2.350.000 - 2.356.999 | Zeiss Planar 80/2.8 or Schneider Xenotar 80/2.8 | |
| 2.8E3 | 1962 | 2.360.000 - 2.362.024 | ||
| 2.8F | 1960 | 2.400.000 - 2.451.850 | Zeiss Planar 80/2.8 or Schneider Xenotar 80/2.8 | |
| 2.8F2 | 1966 | 2.451.851 - 2.479.999 | Zeiss Planar 80/2.8 or Schneider Xenotar 80/2.8 | |
| 2.8F3 | 1969 | 2.600.000 - 2.799.999 | Zeiss Planar 80/2.8 or Schneider Xenotar 80/2.8 | |
| 2.8F4 | 1976 | 2.900.000 - 2.959.999 | ||
| Aurum | 1982 | 2.570.001 - 7.571.249 | ||
| Aurum | 1983 | 8.300.000 - 8.301.499 | ||
| Platin | 1984 | 2.985.000 - 2.985.499 | ||
| Platin A | 1989 | 2.986.500 - 2.986.599 | ||
| 2.8GX | 1987 | 2.985.500 - | Rollei Planar HFT 80/2.8 | |
| 2.8GX | 1993 | 8.810.000 - | Rollei Planar HFT 80/2.8 | |
| 2.8GX Edition | 1989 | 5.010.000 - 5.017.999 | ||
| 2.8GX Helmut Newton Edition | 1992 | 6.030.000 - 8.036.999 | ||
| 2.8 Royal | ||||
Sunday, November 20, 2005
Yashica TLR (Nov 2003)
Yashica TLR. Japanese made. Classic copy of Rolleiflex/Rolleicord style. Some said the Yashinon lens is on par with the Tessar/Xenar found on Rollei. And of course I have to test it out. Here I have three Yashicas: 2 Yashica Mat and 1 Yashica D. Fitted with differnt lenses: Yashikor, Lumaxar, and Yashinon.
Yashica TLR models
Details of some Yashica TLR models.
There are also other models such as Yashica LM, Yashica Mat EM, Yashica Mat LM etc. Currently the 124G model is the hottest Yashica TLR on auction sites. But, I think the build quality of the 124G is not as good as the old models. As long as the lens used is Yashinon, the Yashica D, Yashica Mat, and Yashica 124 etc models are priced more reasonable. Try to avoid models before Yashica D, though.
Lenses
These are the most commonly found lenses on Yashica TLRs.
Tri-Lausar & Yashimar
3-element design. I haven't tried these lenses. But from what I heard, these lenses are not as sharp as the Yashikor.
Yashikor
Also a 3-element deisgn. Coated. Give good result when stopped down.
Yashinon
If you want to get serious with your TLR, this is the lens to look for. Copy of the famous Zeiss Tessar design. 4 elements in 3 groups. Coated
Lumaxar
Lumaxar was the original name of Yashinon. The design is the same. So you can expect it gives the same quality as the Yashinon.
Operation
Shutter speed and aperture are set by the two wheels between the viewing lens and taking lens. The aperture settings are stepless, meaning that there are no click stops and you can set any aperture value you want. Both settings can be read easily by the windows on top of the viewing lens.
The models I have came with X and M sync. Some models only with X sync.
Early models use knobs for film advance. Shutter need to be cocked separately. Later models use levers and the shutter is cocked automatically during film advance.
More Photos
Yashica TLR models
Details of some Yashica TLR models.
| Model | Year | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Yashica A | 1958-1969 | 3-element Yashikor. B, 1/25 ~ 1/300. Red-window film advance |
| Yashica B | ||
| Yashica C | 1957-1958 | |
| Yashica D | 1957-1973 | Early production with Yashikor. Later switched to the better 4-element Yashinon. B, 1 ~ 1/500. Film advance knob. Shutter cocked separately. |
| Yashica E | 1964-1966 | |
| Yashica 24 | 1966-1968 | |
| Yashica 12 | 1967-1968 | |
| Yashica Mat | 1957-1971 | |
| Yashica 124 | 1968-1971 | |
| Yashica 124G | 1970-1986 |
There are also other models such as Yashica LM, Yashica Mat EM, Yashica Mat LM etc. Currently the 124G model is the hottest Yashica TLR on auction sites. But, I think the build quality of the 124G is not as good as the old models. As long as the lens used is Yashinon, the Yashica D, Yashica Mat, and Yashica 124 etc models are priced more reasonable. Try to avoid models before Yashica D, though.
Lenses
These are the most commonly found lenses on Yashica TLRs.
Tri-Lausar & Yashimar
3-element design. I haven't tried these lenses. But from what I heard, these lenses are not as sharp as the Yashikor.
Yashikor
Also a 3-element deisgn. Coated. Give good result when stopped down.
Yashinon
If you want to get serious with your TLR, this is the lens to look for. Copy of the famous Zeiss Tessar design. 4 elements in 3 groups. Coated
Lumaxar
Lumaxar was the original name of Yashinon. The design is the same. So you can expect it gives the same quality as the Yashinon.
Operation
Shutter speed and aperture are set by the two wheels between the viewing lens and taking lens. The aperture settings are stepless, meaning that there are no click stops and you can set any aperture value you want. Both settings can be read easily by the windows on top of the viewing lens.
The models I have came with X and M sync. Some models only with X sync.
Early models use knobs for film advance. Shutter need to be cocked separately. Later models use levers and the shutter is cocked automatically during film advance.
More Photos
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